Ryukyu kasuri
Ryukyu kasuri (琉球絣) is a traditional ikat-style woven textile from the Ryukyu Islands, particularly centered in present-day Okinawa Prefecture. It is recognized for its bright colors, geometric and pictorial motifs, and its deep cultural ties to Ryukyuan identity. The textile reflects historical exchanges between Okinawa and Southeast Asia, China, and Japan, resulting in a unique weaving tradition that differs from mainland Japanese kasuri.
History
Kasuri weaving was introduced to the Ryukyu Kingdom sometime between the 14th and 16th centuries, likely through maritime trade networks connecting the islands with regions such as Southeast Asia, Fujian, and the Indian subcontinent. During the Ryukyu Kingdom era, brightly colored kasuri fabrics were worn by nobility and also traded to Japan and China as diplomatic and commercial goods.
Following the annexation of the Ryukyu Kingdom by Japan in the Meiji period, Ryukyu kasuri adapted to domestic textile markets while maintaining traditional aesthetics. Local weaving cooperatives emerged to preserve and standardize techniques.
Materials
Ryukyu kasuri historically utilized:
- Ramie (苧麻, choma) and **hemp** (麻, asa) in earlier periods
- Cotton became more common from the late Edo and Meiji periods onward
Modern production often uses cotton, though ramie-based cloth continues to be woven at a smaller scale for formal garments.
Technique
Ryukyu kasuri is produced using *ikat* techniques:
- Threads for warp and/or weft are resist-dyed before weaving.
- Patterns are aligned manually during the weaving process.
- Motifs include turtles, ships, waves, birds, flowers, and stylized geometric forms.
Compared to mainland Japanese kasuri, Ryukyu kasuri tends to show clearer, more pictorial motifs and bold color contrasts, especially indigo, red, yellow, and black tones.
Cultural Significance
Ryukyu kasuri is considered a cultural symbol of Okinawan identity. It reflects:
- Local climate and island aesthetics
- Historical maritime exchange networks
- Distinct Ryukyuan artistic sensibilities
Weaving remains a community-supported craft, with local workshops and guilds training new artisans.
Modern Status
Ryukyu kasuri continues to be used for:
- Kimono and obi
- Traditional Okinawan clothing such as ryusou
- Contemporary fashion textiles and accessories
The craft is protected and promoted through:
- Local cooperatives (e.g., Ryukyu Kasuri Business Cooperative)
- Cultural heritage organizations
- Educational and museum programs
See also
References
- 沖縄県伝統工芸振興センター『琉球絣：技と文様』那覇, 2015.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- Dower, John W. (ed.). *Handwoven Textiles of Japan*. Shibundo, 1998.
