Omi-jōfu
Omi-jōfu (近江上布) is a traditional ramie textile produced in the region of Ōmi Province, corresponding to present-day Shiga Prefecture. Known for its crisp texture, refined kasuri (ikat) patterning, and cool, breathable qualities, Omi-jōfu has historically been used as a summer garment fabric. While closely related to Echigo-jōfu and Ojiya-chijimi, Omi-jōfu developed its own regional identity and aesthetic characteristics.
History
Omi-jōfu has roots in textile production from the early Edo period. As trade networks expanded, Omi became an important distribution center for textiles between western and eastern Japan. Local weavers adopted and adapted techniques associated with ramie processing and kasuri dyeing, developing a distinctive weaving culture.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, Omi-jōfu was traded widely and gained recognition as a high-quality summer cloth. Its demand declined during the modern industrial era, but revival movements in the 20th century helped preserve remaining weaving traditions.
Materials
Omi-jōfu is woven from Ramie fibers (苧麻, choma)
Ramie processing includes:
- Hand-splitting and combing of fibers
- Twisting into fine continuous threads
- Careful alignment to achieve a light and even weave
Technique
Key features include:
- Kasuri (ikat) resist-dye patterning of warp and/or weft threads before weaving
- Handweaving on traditional looms
- Post-weave finishing to create a smooth surface
Omi-jōfu tends to show:
- Soft-edged geometric motifs
- Indigo or natural-dye tonal variation
- Even, lightweight texture suited to warm climates
Some workshops produce plain-woven variations without patterning.
Cultural Significance
Omi-jōfu represents the weaving heritage of Shiga, a region historically linked to merchant culture and inland trade networks. The textile reflects the adaptive nature of Japanese handweaving traditions, combining regional innovation with shared craft knowledge across Japan’s ramie-producing areas.
Modern Status
Although production is limited, Omi-jōfu continues to be woven by:
- Certified artisans
- Craft cooperatives
- Cultural preservation organizations
Today, it is used for:
- Summer kimono and juban (undergarments)
- Obi and accessories
- Artistic textile works
See also
References
- 滋賀県伝統工芸保存会『近江上布の技術と地域文化』滋賀, 2013.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- Dower, John W. (ed.). *Handwoven Textiles of Japan*. Shibundo, 1998.
