Noto-jōfu
Noto-jōfu (能登上布) is a traditional fine ramie textile produced in the Noto Peninsula, located in present-day Ishikawa Prefecture. It belongs to the family of jōfu (上布) bast-fiber textiles, which also includes Miyako-jōfu and Echigo-jōfu. Noto-jōfu is known for its light, cool texture, subtle sheen, and often delicate kasuri (ikat) patterns, making it particularly suitable for summer kimono and undergarments.
History
Ramie weaving in the Noto region has roots extending back to the medieval period. During the Edo era, the local domain promoted textile production both for regional use and for trade. By the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Noto-jōfu was recognized as a refined bast-fiber textile comparable to other high-grade jōfu traditions.
The craft declined during the Meiji and Taishō periods due to the rise of cotton, silk industrialization, and later synthetic fabrics. However, local weaving families and preservation groups maintained production on a small scale. In the 20th century, Noto-jōfu became an important subject of research among Japanese textile historians and the Mingei (folk craft) movement.
Materials
Noto-jōfu is woven from:
- Ramie fibers (苧麻, choma)
Fiber preparation involves: 1. Harvesting ramie stalks 2. Stripping and extracting inner fibers 3. Repeated washing and combing 4. Hand-splicing fibers into continuous threads, often using water or saliva
The resulting threads are extremely fine, strong, and slightly lustrous.
Technique
Key characteristics of Noto-jōfu include:
- Kasuri (ikat) patterns formed by resist-dying threads before weaving
- Fine handweaving using high-tension techniques to maintain thread consistency
- Post-weave finishing that results in a smooth, cool, and breathable cloth
The aesthetic tends toward:
- Subtle geometric patterns
- Soft indigo or plant-dyed natural tones
- Light, clean fabric texture suited for warm climates
Compared with Miyako-jōfu:
- Noto-jōfu tends to have less polished surface sheen
- Patterns are often simpler and quieter in rhythm
Cultural Significance
Noto-jōfu reflects the material culture of rural coastal communities in northern Japan. It represents:
- A long-standing tradition of bast fiber craftsmanship
- Skilled communal and intergenerational textile knowledge
- The wabi-sabi aesthetic of quiet refinement
Its survival contributes to the broader cultural preservation of jōfu weaving traditions across Japan.
Modern Status
Today, Noto-jōfu is produced at very limited scale by:
- Artisan weaving families
- Regional cultural preservation cooperatives
- Textile researchers and restoration workshops
It is used for:
- Summer kimono (particularly formal and semi-formal styles)
- Obi and accessories
- Museum and collector textile works
See also
References
- 石川県伝統産業保存協会『能登上布と北陸の上布文化』金沢, 2011.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
