Miyako-jōfu
Miyako-jōfu (宮古上布) is an exceptionally fine handwoven ramie textile produced on Miyako Island (宮古島) in Okinawa Prefecture. Distinguished by its extreme thinness, smoothness, and refined indigo-dyed kasuri patterns, Miyako-jōfu is regarded as one of the highest-quality bast-fiber textiles in Japan. In 1978, its weaving tradition was designated an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan.
History
The origins of Miyako-jōfu date back to at least the 16th century, during the era of the Ryukyu Kingdom. The cloth became a form of taxation imposed on island communities, where women were required to weave jōfu as tribute. This contributed to generations of specialized skill development, making Miyako Island one of the most technically accomplished centers of ramie weaving.
During the Edo and Meiji periods, Miyako-jōfu was widely traded and highly valued by both Ryukyuan and mainland Japanese elites as a luxury summer fabric.
Materials
Miyako-jōfu is woven exclusively from Ramie (苧麻, choma) sourced locally.
The fiber extraction process is exceptionally labor-intensive:
- The inner bark fibers are stripped, separated, hand-combed, and delicately twisted.
- Individual filaments are spliced by hand using saliva or water, forming extremely fine, continuous threads.
Ramie threads used for Miyako-jōfu rank among the thinnest hand-produced bast fibers in Japan.
Technique
Key characteristics of Miyako-jōfu include:
- Kasuri (ikat) patterning: Threads are tied and resist-dyed prior to weaving to form soft-edged geometric motifs.
- Indigo dyeing: Traditionally dyed with natural Ryukyuan indigo, resulting in a deep, muted blue.
- Handweaving on a simple horizontal loom, demanding high precision to maintain thread alignment.
After weaving, the cloth is polished with a wooden mallet (uchiko) for hours to achieve its uniquely smooth, cool, and lustrous finish.
The resulting textile is:
- Extremely lightweight
- Cool to the touch
- Subtly glossy and elegant
Cultural Significance
Miyako-jōfu is considered a pinnacle of bast-fiber weaving artistry. Producing even a single bolt of cloth requires months of continuous labor and highly specialized knowledge passed from master to apprentice. As a result, production is limited and pieces are often preserved as heirlooms or collected by museums.
Modern Status
- Production continues through the Miyako Jōfu Cooperative and certified individual workshops.
- The textile is used primarily for high-end kimono, obi, and curated textile collections.
- Skills preservation is supported through national cultural heritage programs.
See also
References
- 宮古上布保存会『宮古上布の技法』宮古島, 2014.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- Dower, John W. (ed.). *Handwoven Textiles of Japan*. Shibundo, 1998.
