Kuzu-fu
Kuzu-fu (葛布) is a traditional Japanese textile woven from the fibers of the kuzu plant (Pueraria montana var. lobata, commonly known as arrowroot). It is particularly associated with the region of Kakegawa, in present-day Shizuoka Prefecture. Kuzu-fu is valued for its distinctive glossy surface, firm yet supple texture, and natural golden-brown hues. The craft is among Japan’s oldest bast-fiber weaving traditions and requires meticulous manual processing of the kuzu root bark.
History
The production of kuzu-fu is documented as early as the Heian period, and historical records indicate its use in garments, cords, and ritual textiles. During the Edo period, Kakegawa became a major center of kuzu-fu weaving, with textiles traded throughout Japan.
The decline of traditional weaving during the Meiji and Taishō periods led to significant reductions in production. However, the Kakegawa region maintained the craft through family workshops and later cooperative preservation efforts, allowing kuzu-fu to survive into the modern era.
Materials
Kuzu-fu is woven from bast fibers extracted from kuzu vines (葛蔓)
Fiber preparation involves:
- Harvesting wild kuzu vines, typically in late autumn.
- Steaming and peeling the bark.
- Separating the soft inner fiber layer.
- Repeated washing and beating to soften the fibers.
- Hand-twisting into long continuous yarns.
The resulting fibers are:
- Strong
- Light
- Subtly lustrous
Technique
Kuzu-fu is traditionally woven on hand looms. Its characteristic texture comes from:
- Variations in fiber thickness
- Firm weft packing
- Natural plant-dye tonal variation
The textile may be woven either:
- Undyed (revealing warm beige-brown hues), or
- Dyed using natural dyes such as indigo or madder
The finished cloth is durable, breathable, and resistant to humidity, making it suitable for:
- Summer garments
- Sashes and belts
- Bags and utilitarian items
- Contemporary textile art
Cultural Significance
Kuzu-fu embodies the material culture of Japan’s forest-based rural life. Its survival highlights:
- Ecological knowledge of mountain plant resources
- Skilled communal craftwork
- Connections between agriculture, clothing, and everyday labor
The craft is recognized for preserving **pre-industrial Japanese bast-fiber traditions**, linking it to other root and bark fiber textiles such as Shinafu and Bashōfu.
Modern Status
Production remains limited and is sustained by:
- Artisan cooperatives in the Kakegawa region
- Cultural heritage protection programs
- Museum and research center documentation
Kuzu-fu textiles are now sought after for:
- High-quality kimono accessories
- Contemporary design collaborations
- Collecting and exhibition
See also
References
- 掛川葛布協同組合『葛布の歴史と技法』掛川, 2009.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
