Kurume Kasuri
Kurume Kasuri (久留米絣) is one of Japan’s most historically influential and widely recognized forms of kasuri (ikat) textile. Centered in and around the city of Kurume in Fukuoka Prefecture on the island of Kyushu, Kurume Kasuri is known for its soft cotton texture, hand-tied resist-dye patterning, and rhythmic geometric designs. It became a major everyday garment fabric during the 19th and early 20th centuries and remains an iconic regional craft.
History
Kurume Kasuri originated in the early 19th century. According to tradition, the technique was developed by a young girl named Inoue Den (井上伝, 1788–1869), who noticed patterned effects emerging when old indigo-dyed thread was rewoven. Her discovery evolved into a systematic practice of dying threads before weaving to create designs in the finished cloth.
Kurume’s location—at the intersection of river transport and agricultural cotton-growing areas—allowed the textile to spread rapidly. By the late Edo period, Kurume Kasuri had become a major craft industry, involving:
- Thread-spinning households
- Indigo-dye workshops
- Weaving cooperatives
- Regional merchant networks
In the Meiji and Taishō eras, Kurume Kasuri was widely used for everyday kimono, work clothing, and informal garments.
Materials
Kurume Kasuri is woven primarily from:
- Cotton (手紡ぎ → later machine-spun)
Indigo has historically been the dominant dye:
- Natural indigo vats (灰汁建て) were standard until the 20th century
- Today, both natural and synthetic indigo are used depending on workshop tradition
Technique
Kurume Kasuri is characterized by:
- Tate kasuri (warp ikat),
- Yoko kasuri (weft ikat), and
- Tate-yoko kasuri (combined warp and weft ikat)
Threads are: 1. Tied in patterned bundles 2. Dyed, traditionally in natural indigo 3. Untied to reveal resist patterns 4. Aligned carefully on the loom 5. Woven to form designs that appear in the finished cloth
Typical motifs include:
- Checks and grids
- Diamonds and stepping-stone patterns
- Repeating geometric sequences
- Small-scale figurative or symbolic designs
The cloth is known for being:
- Soft, breathable, and comfortable in daily wear
- Visually rhythmic and balanced in pattern
Cultural Significance
Kurume Kasuri embodies:
- The material culture of 19th-century everyday Japan
- Women's domestic craft innovation (associated with Inoue Den)
- The evolution of kasuri into a widespread regional industry
It is one of the **three great kasuri traditions** of Japan, alongside:
- Iyo Kasuri (Ehime Prefecture)
- Bingo Kasuri (Hiroshima Prefecture)
Modern Status
Kurume Kasuri continues to be woven by:
- Artisan cooperatives
- Small family workshops
- Cultural preservation guilds
Contemporary applications include:
- Kimono and haori
- Clothing fabric for fashion brands
- Textile art and interior goods
See also
References
- 久留米絣技術保存会『久留米絣の技法と意匠』久留米, 2013.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
