Koshihiki
Koshihiki (越敷き / 越引き) refers to a traditional Japanese textile technique in which the threads are drawn or arranged in a distinctive, irregular manner to create subtle textures and patterns in woven cloth. It is historically associated with rural weaving cultures and everyday fabrics, particularly in northern regions of Japan where hand-spun fibers such as hemp and ramie were commonly used.
History
The development of koshihiki is linked to the wider tradition of handweaving in pre-industrial Japan. In regions with limited access to silk, local communities relied on bast fibers (notably ramie and occasionally hemp) to produce durable textiles for clothing and household use. The irregular thread drawing characteristic of koshihiki likely emerged as a practical adaptation to variations in hand-spun yarn thickness, gradually becoming an aesthetic technique of its own.
Materials and Technique
Koshihiki textiles are typically woven using:
- Ramie (苧麻, choma), known for its strength and sheen.
- Hemp (大麻, asa), particularly in earlier periods.
- Occasionally cotton in later centuries, especially during the Edo period.
The technique involves **drawing and adjusting warp or weft threads** during the weaving process to produce subtle shifts in density. These variations create a soft, irregular texture that distinguishes koshihiki from more uniform weaves. The resulting fabric is breathable and resilient, making it suitable for work clothing, undergarments, and everyday kimono.
Cultural Significance
Koshihiki represents the resourceful craftsmanship of rural Japan, where weavers transformed natural fibers and manual techniques into textiles of practical beauty. Though industrialized weaving later reduced the prevalence of handwoven fabrics, appreciation for koshihiki has grown among textile researchers, collectors, and contemporary artisans interested in slow-made and historically grounded craft traditions.
Preservation
Today, koshihiki-inspired weaves may be found in the work of independent weavers and workshops focused on traditional Japanese textile revival. Some museums and cultural heritage organizations include examples in their collections of regional folk textiles.
See also
References
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
- Dower, John W. (ed.). *Handwoven Textiles of Japan*. Shibundo, 1998.
