Iyo Kasuri
Iyo Kasuri (伊予絣) is a traditional form of kasuri (ikat) textile produced in Ehime Prefecture on the island of Shikoku. It is recognized as one of the three major kasuri traditions of Japan, alongside Kurume Kasuri and Bingo Kasuri. Characterized by soft cotton texture and blurred geometric patterns, Iyo Kasuri has historically been used for everyday kimono and work clothing, reflecting a regional aesthetic of simplicity and practicality.
History
Iyo Kasuri developed during the late Edo period. The craft is traditionally attributed to Kawai O-yū (河合おゆう, 1800–1866), who is said to have adapted techniques she observed in other regions and introduced the practice of dying threads before weaving to create patterns within the fabric.
Located along major sea routes of the Seto Inland Sea, Ehime became a center for cotton distribution and weaving, enabling Iyo Kasuri textiles to spread throughout western Japan during the 19th century.
By the early 20th century, Iyo Kasuri had become a major regional industry, with specialized workshops focused on:
- Hand-spinning and dyeing
- Resist tying and pattern preparation
- Weaving and finishing
Mechanization and mass production reduced demand in the postwar era, but artisan workshops continue to maintain traditional techniques.
Materials
Iyo Kasuri is woven primarily from:
- Cotton yarns, either hand-spun or factory-spun
Traditional dyeing uses:
- Natural indigo vats (灰汁建て, ashikomi)
- Modern production may also employ synthetic indigo depending on the workshop
Technique
The defining characteristic of Iyo Kasuri is pre-dyed thread patterning:
- Threads are tied to resist dye penetration
- Dyed in indigo baths
- Untied and carefully aligned on the loom
- Woven into cloth with soft-edged geometric motifs
Common patterns include:
- Stripes and checks
- Repeating diamonds and crosses
- Simple floral or symbolic forms
Compared to Kurume Kasuri, Iyo patterns tend to be more relaxed and less densely patterned.
Cultural Significance
Iyo Kasuri embodies:
- The material culture of rural and merchant households in western Japan
- The ethic of simplicity and everyday beauty
- The continuity of home-based and small-workshop textile production
It is recognized as a Traditional Craft Product of Japan.
Modern Status
Today, Iyo Kasuri is produced by:
- Independent master weavers
- Regional craft cooperatives
- Cultural preservation associations
Contemporary applications include:
- Kimono and casual clothing
- Fabric accessories and interior goods
- Textile art
See also
References
- 愛媛県伝統工芸協会『伊予絣の技術と意匠』松山, 2014.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
