Edo Sarasa
Edo Sarasa (江戸更紗) refers to a class of printed and resist-dyed cotton textiles produced primarily in Edo (present-day Tokyo) from the Edo period onward. The term "sarasa" originally referred to imported Indian chintz textiles, which were prized in Japan for their vivid colors and repeating floral and geometric patterns. As these imported fabrics became fashionable among samurai and townspeople, Japanese artisans developed domestic techniques to reproduce and reinterpret their designs using stencil work and resist-dyeing methods.
Origins
Sarasa first entered Japan through maritime trade routes in the Azuchi–Momoyama and early Edo periods, primarily via Nagasaki. These imported cotton textiles, originating in India, Southeast Asia, and Persia, were known for:
- Bright vegetable dyes
- Repeating block-printed motifs
- Red, yellow, black, indigo, and white contrasts
Because imported sarasa was expensive, local workshops in major cities — especially Edo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Sakai — began producing imitations and reinterpretations, resulting in distinct regional sarasa styles.
Characteristics and Technique
Edo Sarasa differs from imported sarasa in both aesthetic tone and technical production:
- Stenciling (katazome) was used to apply resist paste before dyeing.
- Multiple dye baths were employed to achieve multi-color designs.
- Patterns often exhibit greater restraint, with softer contrast and more muted palettes compared to Indian originals.
Typical motifs include:
- Stylized florals
- Repeating roundels
- Geometric lattice backgrounds
- Arabesque and scrollwork
- Adapted Indian, Persian, and East Asian elements
The overall effect is controlled, balanced, and suited to urban Japanese taste.
Historical Use
Edo Sarasa was widely used for:
- Lining of kimono and haori (where a more personal, private aesthetic was preferred)
- Casual and everyday garments
- Small accessories such as pouches and wrapping cloths
Because it suggested both refinement and cosmopolitan awareness, Edo Sarasa became associated with the culture of the Edo townspeople (chōnin).
Cultural Significance
Edo Sarasa reflects:
- The adaptation of global textile culture into Japanese urban taste
- Selective appropriation and reinterpretation of foreign visual languages
- The aesthetic identity of Edo’s literate merchant class
It is a key example of early Japanese globalization in material culture.
Modern Status
Edo Sarasa continues to be produced by:
- Traditional stencil-dyeing workshops
- Textile preservation studios
- Designers engaged in historical revival
Contemporary uses include:
- Kimono fabric
- Fashion accessories
- Interior textiles
See also
References
- 東京染織文化協会『江戸更紗：技と意匠の伝統』東京, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『更紗の美』日本民藝協会, 2007.
- Victoria and Albert Museum, *Indian Chintz and Global Influence*, London, 2018.
