Boro
Boro (襤褸) refers to textiles in Japan that have been patched, mended, layered, and reinforced over long periods of use. Originating primarily in the rural regions of northern and northeastern Japan (including Aomori Prefecture and Niigata Prefecture), boro textiles reflect a culture of resourcefulness in which cloth was repaired repeatedly rather than discarded. The term encompasses clothing, bedding, work garments, and household textiles.
History
From the Edo period through the early 20th century, cold climates, limited agricultural resources, and restricted availability of new textiles meant that people in rural Japan often had only modest access to cotton or silk. Instead, families pieced together available cloth scrap by scrap, using:
- Hemp and ramie cloth
- Recycled cotton from used garments
- Indigo-dyed remnants and thread
Over decades, textiles accumulated multiple layers of fabric and stitching. These repaired textiles came to be known as **boro**, meaning “tattered” or “ragged.”
Materials
Boro textiles commonly include:
- Cotton (recycled from worn garments)
- Hemp (麻, asa)
- Ramie (苧麻, choma)
- Handspun and hand-dyed thread, especially natural indigo
Fabric scraps were reused until they were no longer structurally viable, after which they were repurposed for quilting or patchwork.
Technique
Boro textiles are most closely associated with:
- Sashiko stitching (刺し子), a technique of reinforcing cloth with small running stitches
- Layering and patchwork, often building up multiple thicknesses
- Repair on top of repair, creating a history visible in the fabric itself
Common stitch patterns include:
- Simple running stitch grids
- Reinforced seam outlines
- Decorative geometric patterns (in later, more formal sashiko traditions)
The resulting cloth is:
- Thick and warm
- Durable and suited to harsh winters
- A record of lived experience and family memory
Cultural Significance
Boro is considered a profound expression of:
- Survival in regions of material scarcity
- Communal and familial craft labor
- Aesthetic values of **mottainai** (勿体ない), the ethic of not wasting what can be reused
In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, boro gained international recognition for its:
- Textural beauty
- Cultural depth
- Resonance with sustainable and slow-fashion movements
It is widely studied in anthropology, textile history, and contemporary design.
Modern Status
Today, boro textiles appear:
- In museum and private collections
- As inspiration for contemporary fashion and art
- In revived sashiko workshops
- As a symbol of ethical and sustainable making
However, authentic historical boro textiles are rare, and their commercial value has risen significantly.
See also
References
- 青森県民俗資料館 編『津軽の襤褸：北国の衣生活』青森, 2009.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
