Bashōfu
Bashōfu (芭蕉布) is a traditional textile woven from the fibers of the Japanese fiber-banana plant, known locally as ito-bashō (糸芭蕉, Musa basjoo). Produced primarily in the Ryukyu Islands, especially in the village of Kijoka on Okinawa Island, bashōfu is distinguished by its lightness, natural earthy tones, and strong cultural associations with traditional Ryukyuan clothing. In 1974, the craft of bashōfu production was designated an Important Intangible Cultural Property of Japan.
History
The use of banana fiber textiles in Okinawa is believed to date back over 600 years, during the period of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Before the widespread introduction of cotton and silk, bashōfu was an essential everyday fabric worn by commoners and nobility alike. Each region of the Ryukyus developed distinctive weaving styles, but the highest quality bashōfu has long been associated with Kijoka, where weaving techniques were carefully transmitted across generations.
By the 20th century, the spread of industrial fabrics and the decline of fiber-banana cultivation threatened the craft. Preservation and revival efforts were led by master weaver Takae Miyagi (宮城タカ), whose work was crucial in safeguarding the tradition.
Materials
Bashōfu is made from Ito-bashō fibers extracted from the inner bark of the fiber-banana plant
The production process is labor-intensive:
- Mature stalks are cut, peeled, and boiled.
- Inner fibers are split and scraped into fine strands.
- Fibers are hand-twisted into continuous threads.
The resulting yarn is lightweight, strong, and breathable.
Technique
Key features of bashōfu production include:
- Handspinning of bast fibers into yarn
- Kasuri (ikat) patterning using resist-dyed threads
- Handweaving on a simple horizontal loom
The natural colors of bashōfu range from pale beige to warm brown. Dyes from plants such as **fukugi** and **indigo** are sometimes used for patterned textiles.
The finished cloth has:
- A cool, crisp touch
- A subtle luster
- A characteristic organic texture
Cultural Significance
Bashōfu served not only as everyday wear but also as a **marker of Ryukyuan identity**, deeply tied to island agriculture, women’s labor traditions, and communal weaving culture. It remains an emblem of Okinawa’s intangible heritage.
Modern Status
Production is maintained through:
- Kijoka Bashōfu Cooperative
- Local cultural preservation programs
- Certified artisans
Contemporary uses include:
- Kimono and obi
- Ceremonial garments
- Museum collections and textile research displays
Due to the scarcity of fiber-banana cultivation and the time required to prepare each thread, bashōfu is produced in limited quantities.
See also
References
- 喜如嘉芭蕉布事業協同組合『芭蕉布：糸と技法』沖縄, 2010.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
