Shinafu
Shinafu (科布 / 榀布) is a traditional Japanese textile woven from the inner bark fibers of the shina tree, a variety of linden (Tilia japonica). It is among Japan’s oldest bast-fiber textiles, historically produced in mountainous regions where cultivation of cotton or ramie was difficult. Shinafu is characterized by its warm, earthy texture, subtle sheen, and remarkable durability. Today, production is most closely associated with areas of Yamagata Prefecture (particularly in the Shōnai region) and parts of Niigata Prefecture.
History
Shinafu is believed to trace back to the Jōmon period, making it one of the earliest known Japanese plant-fiber textiles. In remote mountain regions of northern Japan, the shina tree provided a vital source of clothing material long before widespread access to cotton or silk. During the Edo period, shinafu garments and cords were used by farmers, hunters, and fishermen for their durability and resistance to moisture.
The textile entered the field of material culture research during the early 20th century, when ethnologists and members of the Mingei (folk-craft) movement began documenting surviving weaving communities. Their efforts helped preserve knowledge of the craft, which had been declining due to rural depopulation and the spread of industrial fabrics.
Materials
Shinafu is woven from inner bark fibers of the shina tree (Tilia japonica)
The fiber-preparation process is complex:
- Bark is steamed and peeled.
- The inner layer is separated, dried, and softened repeatedly in water.
- Fibers are scraped, combed, and hand-twisted into long threads.
This slow processing produces strong yet flexible yarn with a distinctive organic texture.
Technique
Shinafu weaving is traditionally performed on backstrap looms or handlooms in local households. Key features include:
- Hand-twisted bast yarns with natural irregularity
- Undyed or plant-dyed tones, ranging from soft golden-brown to warm gray
- A dense and durable weave suitable for outer garments, bags, cords, and work clothing
Some shinafu textiles may incorporate:
- Weft variation to create subtle visual rhythm
- Fine patterning through thread density changes rather than color contrast
Cultural Significance
Shinafu embodies:
- The resourcefulness of mountain communities
- An ecological relationship between humans and forest environments
- Continuity of pre-agricultural Japanese material culture
Its survival into the present is considered significant for the study of indigenous craft traditions and rural textile economies.
Modern Status
Production continues at a very small scale, supported by:
- Local craft cooperatives
- Cultural heritage preservation programs
- Museum and academic research
Shinafu is now used in:
- High-quality clothing accessories
- Textile art
- Restorative craft education
Due to the labor-intensive nature of fiber preparation, authentic shinafu textiles are rare and valued by collectors and cultural institutions.
See also
References
- 山形県伝統工芸協会『科布の技法と歴史』山形, 2011.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
