Ojiya-chijimi
Ojiya-chijimi (小千谷縮) is a traditional ramie crêpe textile produced in the city of Ojiya, Niigata Prefecture. Known for its distinctive crinkled texture (shibo) and exceptional lightness, Ojiya-chijimi has been highly valued as a summer kimono fabric. The textile is closely related to Echigo-jōfu, sharing the same regional tradition of fine ramie weaving in the snow-rich region of Echigo.
History
The development of Ojiya-chijimi dates back to the late Edo period, evolving from techniques used in the production of Echigo-jōfu. Weavers in Ojiya adapted the ramie yarn-processing methods to create a textured fabric that was breathable and comfortable during humid summers. The region’s abundant snowfall played a crucial role in bleaching the woven fabric, a signature practice known as yuki-zarashi (snow-field bleaching).
Materials
Ojiya-chijimi is woven from:
- Ramie (苧麻, choma), cultivated and processed through labor-intensive fiber extraction.
The fibers are split, scraped, twisted, and spun into extremely fine and even yarns. The resulting cloth is exceptionally smooth and durable.
Technique
The characteristic shibo (crêpe texture) is created through:
- Tightly twisted weft yarns, woven under controlled tension.
- Hot water treatment post-weaving, allowing the twisted fibers to contract, forming the natural crinkle.
Additionally, Ojiya-chijimi may feature **kasuri (ikat)** patterns, achieved by resist-dyeing warp and/or weft threads prior to weaving.
Snow-Field Bleaching (Yuki-zarashi)
A defining stage in production is the winter bleaching process:
- The fabric is spread across clean snowfields under sunlight.
- Photochemical reaction + snow-reflected UV gently whitens the fabric without damaging fibers.
This technique produces a uniquely soft, cool visual tone and preserves fabric strength.
Cultural Significance
Ojiya-chijimi represents a high point in Japan’s bast-fiber textile tradition. The technique has been recognized as:
- Important Intangible Cultural Property (Japan, 1955)
- Protected and transmitted through guilds and certified craftspeople
Today, artisans continue to preserve the weaving and bleaching techniques despite the reduced scale of production.
Modern Use
Ojiya-chijimi remains prized for:
- Summer kimono and underkimono (juban)
- Contemporary textile art and high-end fashion collaborations
- Museum and academic textile research collections
See also
References
- 新潟県織物工業協同組合『小千谷縮：雪国の上布』新潟, 2010.
- 竹内美智子（M. Takeuchi）『日本の伝統織物事典』平凡社, 2014.
- 日本民藝館 編『民藝の布』日本民藝協会, 2006.
